Sailor Collar

Materials needed:

  • 1/2 yd of matte bridal satin
  • 1/2 yd of light to mid-weight fusible interfacing (optional, but very useful!)
  • White thread
  • Thread to match your satin
  • Wondertape
  • Pre-made double fold bias tape. We use extra wide for single stripes (Supers and Venus) and 1/4″ wide bias tape for classic senshi with multiple stripes.
  • Iron
  • Tailor’s chalk or fabric pen
  • Ruler
  • Collar pattern piece (check out NyuNyu‘s if you don’t have one, or draft your own! Tutorials to draft your own here and here)

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Cut 2 pieces of your collar out of your bridal matte satin and 1 piece of interfacing. For your top layer, grab your interfacing and press it onto the wrong side of your fabric, making sure it’s clean of wrinkles. 

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From here, it’s time to mark where you want your stripes to go. We use a half inch seam allowance for our collars and normally set the outside edge of our stripes at 3/4″ in from the seam allowance, so we mark at 1.25″ (1/2″ + 3/4″) away from the edge on the right side of the fabric.

Next, grab your Wonder Tape double fold bias tape. Wonder Tape is a water soluble tape that is used to hold fabric together as you stitch. Place it on the bottom of your bias tape and place it on  your collar, right along the edge of the line you marked earlier, making sure distances between stripes are consistent and allowing for outside seam allowance on the edge of the collar. Be sure not to pull your bias tape as you place it on the collar, as this will lead to wrinkles while you sew. Edgestitch your bias tape and press.

Grab your other collar piece. With wrong sides together, stitch both pieces using a ½” seam allowance.

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Leave a gap at the center of the neck to flip inside out. Trim your seam allowance and grade the corners to reduce bulk, being careful not to cut through your stitching. Flip your collar inside out. Using a chopstick or other pointed object, gently push out the corners and press. 

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Pressed (left) vs. Unpressed

To finish the neck opening, hand stitch or topstitch the free ends closed. We normally hand finish collars for short-haired characters or characters with exposed necks (e.g., Uranus, Saturn, Mercury, Chibi Moon and Moon). Longer haired characters cover the collar opening, so the topstitching is concealed by the wigs.

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Credits:

Tutorial text/photos by The Geeky Seamstress.